Japan 2026

Japan Central Alps · October 2026

The bikes

Three riders, two machines. One couple two-up, one solo.

Two-up

Jenifer

2024 BMW R 1300 GS

Riders
2
Power
145 hp
Tank
19 L (5.0 gal)
Range
~300 km (185 mi)
Carries
Panniers + top box

Set the ESA preload for two-up with luggage at pickup — it changes how the front end behaves on tight downhill hairpins like Irohazaka. Check whether the pillion seat is heated.

Jenifer, the BMW R 1300 GS in blue, white and red, with aluminium top box and panniers fitted
Jenifer — the R 1300 GS in the Motorsport colours, same luggage.

Solo

Dobi

2023 BMW F 750 GS

Riders
1
Power
77 hp
Tank
15 L (4.0 gal)
Range
~300 km (185 mi)
Carries
The shared load

Lighter and quicker to flick into a corner than a loaded 1300, but down on power everywhere else. This is the bike that sets the group's pace.

Dobi, the white BMW F 750 GS, with aluminium top box and panniers fitted
Dobi — the F 750 GS, top box and both panniers fitted.

Riding notes

  • Let the F750 lead. Jenifer will pull away two-up on expressways and long climbs. Riding to the slower bike keeps the solo rider from working hard all day.
  • The pillion sets the stopping rhythm. No engine heat, no wind management, nothing to do with their hands — a passenger stiffens and chills faster than either rider. Break every 60–90 minutes, not every fuel stop.

Fuel and cold

  • Fill before the mountains, not after. The Chōkai Blue Line, the Aspite Line, R292 over Shibu Pass and the Bandai-Azuma Skyline all have long stretches with nothing open.
  • Rural hours are the real limit, not range. Tōhoku stations often close by 18:00–19:00, some shut on Sundays, and unmanned pumps frequently reject foreign cards.
  • Dress for 2,172 m (7,126 ft). Shibu Pass in October is near freezing at the top with wind chill on it. Thermal layers, heated grips on.
  • Documents. Both riders carry the international driving permit — booklet form, Section A stamped for motorcycles — together with the home licence and passport. The pillion needs only a passport.

Check before every mountain day

Mountain roads in Japan close at short notice for snow, rockfall, volcanic gas and roadworks, and the notice usually appears only on the road manager's own site in Japanese. Check the night before, then again at breakfast — a gate closed at the foot of a pass can cost you the whole day. Use your phone's translate function on these.

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